Kinder Downfall

Today's walk was up to edge of the legendary Kinder Scout.  I've heard so much about Kinder Scout, Kinder Downfall and of course, The Kinder Trespass., it was time I saw it for myself, and Peter worked out a route of just over 7 miles taking us up onto the edge and along to Kinder Downfall.  Peaks and groughs could be saved for another day.

So we parked up below the memorial plaque in the first picture and set off.  The route wasn't too difficult, we made our way through a field of cows ( I always have to mention them, cos they make me nervous). Once again we made it to the other side of the field unharmed. We walked along the edge of the wood which backs onto Kinder Reservoir until we got to it's most easterly tip.

What I didn't know was that Peter had planned the route with the assumption that a path that ran out on the map wouldn't really run out or come to a dead end.  That would be silly, people don't just walk so far and then turn back.  He was confident it would continue on the ground.

Look up to Kinder Edge

We did sort of find a path, that sort of went in the right direction.  But it also sort of kept fading in and out.
In the end, we gave up trying to follow it and basically went for Peter's favourite way of getting to the top - straight up!

The heather was putting on an awesome purple show all along the banks 

We ended up making our way through thick heather, rough ground and bog up the steep slopes of the bank. Hard work!   But finally we met up with the path coming from The Three Knolls.  I was so relieved.  Walking is much easier when you have a path, and your feet don't drop into unseen dips and holes.

The Path from The Three Knolls

Rock formations in the Peak District are always fascinating.  

Not much falling at Kinder Downfall today 

Walking on, we clambered over the waterfall of Red Brook, (we could have followed the path that went round the top, but it was much more fun this way), and enjoyed the views of Kinder Reservoir and beyond. We reached Kinder Downfall where we planned to have a pie stop, but our plans were thwarted by three devious ladies who were after our pies.

They were already at Kinder Downfall when we got there, mingling with the walkers.  We hardly noticed them as we admired the views and then took loads of photo's.  But they'd been eyeing us up from the start. We settled down on a convenient rock with a good view, and rummaged a steak pie out of the rucksack. I'd just got it out of the wrapper when I realised that one of the three had sneaked up behind me and was just about to nab the pie from my hand.  I pulled it back quickly, shouting at her, but she hardly stepped back.  She just stared at the pie, waiting for me to give it to her. Peter had to stand up and chase her off, shouting and growling.  Who would believe it?  A sheep tried to steal my pie?

We sat down and tried again, but it was no good.  There were three ewes circling us, bouncing from one rock to another and getting closer all the time. Peter got up and chased them off again, but the biggest of them (I've named her Ma Baker), just wasn't afraid.  She hardly got out of Peter's way, and just kept eyeing up our food.......... Menacingly!

We quickly gave up trying to eat in peace and moved away from the waterfall. I've never come across such fearless sheep before. Other walkers must have happily given them sandwiches and titbits in the past. Us two greedy beggars who wouldn't share were obviously something very new to them.

Beware Ma Baker and her gang of thieves.  Well practiced in snack snatching, they have no fear of people. 

Looking over Kinder Scout from the other side of the river to the sheep 

We did enjoy a cup of tea in peace further along though.

We came down the bank via William Clough, (which at least had a path), until we reached Kinder Reservoir and then the road back to the car park.

Just over 7 miles and 1900ft of up.  The up bit was challenging, (as per the map below),  the edge bit lovely, the rest bit wasn't very restful, and you had to keep an eye on where you put your feet on the down bit.  All in all a good day.   And what about Ma Baker?  I wonder if she and her cohorts are still up there chasing down buns and sandwiches?

Sadly, although we planned to continue our mini tour of England and Wales by going on to Wales after this walk, we were thwarted again.  Disappointingly, our campervan broke down and we had to return home.  Wales will have to wait.

Dovedale

Dove Dale and the Stepping Stones across the River Dove.  A favourite area for picnics and enjoying the scenery. 

At the beginning of August, we set out on a mini tour of some of our favourite places in the UK.  Unfortunately, we didn't get as far as we would have liked, but that's another story.  We started our road trip with a visit to the Peak District, and this little 6 mile walk.

Starting at the Dove Dale car park shortly after lunch, we followed the river Dove to Milldale, enjoying the river, the plants and our surroundings.

I know this as Marjoram, but the Americans might call it Oregano. 

The steep sides of Dove Dale are pitted with caves and fabulous water and weather sculpted rock formations.  We had to climb a short, but very steep and slippery path to get a closer view of Reynards Cave.  It's not really a cave, more of a glorious arch.

Reynard's Cave.  It was so tempting to make our way through to the caves beyond, but we resisted.  We spend so long investigating spots like this, we end up running out of time for the rest of the walk.  

A bit further along the river Ilam Rock draws the eye.

More caves.  This is one of the Dove Holes.  And yes, we spent time to climb up and investigate.  They are very wet and slippery inside, which hampered my exploration a little.  The safest way to come down and get out was on my bottom. 

Monkeyflowers.  An American invader

Viator's Bridge at Milldale.  It had started to rain, so we took shelter under a tree to take photo's.  

At Milldale we took some time out for a cup of tea and a bit of flapjack, and to shelter from the rain, which had become almost torrential.  We met a couple who'd completed 20 miles so far and were just of to complete the final 6.  Hmmmmmm.  I don't think Peter and I are quite up to that level of fitness.

Rain stopped and tea all gone, we set of the the second half of our walk up the hill west of the river and turning to make our way back to the car park.  On the way we met loads of walkers coming the other way on a charity walk, and like them fought to open a gate that wouldn't open.
There was a stile alongside, and I think it had to be the most difficult stile I've ever come across.  You ended up straddled over the top of the wall trying to get your legs and feet over from one step to another.  Quite ridiculous really.  Another walker going the opposite way had obviously seen us clambering over without and grace or decorum and decided to go through the gate.  Guess what?  Just like us he spent a couple of minutes trying to get the gate open before making the undignified clamber over the stile.   I think the farmer must have been chuckling away for hours when he built/rebuilt that stile.

We carried on towards Bunster Hill, following a path that works around the hill about half way up the slope, which is pretty steep.  There was a hairy patch when we came across an area where the path the had landslipped down the slope, but views across Ilam and beyond.

A view from  Bunster Hill

And from there we made our way through fields of cows, calfs and respective bulls on our way back to the car park.  As always, I felt nervous, but they all behaved with impeccable manners and completely ignored us.  Phew!

My only other comment regarding cows is "Cor Blimey!  Have you heard the racket calves make when they're suckling?  Noisy beggars!"
We were quite amazed by it.


A lovely little afternoons walk, and more days in the Peak District to come.  Wonderful. 

Goyt Valley

I was gonna call this "A White Hot Peak Walk", since it took place in the White Peak part of the Peak District on a really hot n muggy day. Then himself goes n tells me that that the Goyt Valley is borderline, more Dark Peak than White Peak.  So really this was "A Hot Dark Peak, (with a bit of White Peak) Walk................

I decided to keep it simple and call it "Goyt Valley"

We started from a car park on the side of Errwood Reservoir.  The road alongside the reservoir (and our way home from the car park), is closed between 11.00am and 16.00pm every Sunday allowing pedestrians and cyclists to wander freely alongside the reservoir.  We managed to get into the area and our chosen parking spot just before they closed the road off.  Phew!

From the car park, we took a path through the woods to have a look at  Errwood Hall. The site appealed to me as I tried to imagine who'd lived here and what their daily lives were like.  The foundations we saw didn't really tell us much, but I looked it all up when I got back.  The pictures on this site: The Grimshaws of Errwood Hall show the place in all it's grandeur.  I think I should have looked this up before we went out, as it's nice to know the local history and what to look out for on a walk.  We might have tipped our hats at the cemetery or taken a detour to look at the shrine.

Instead we climbed the little vale of Shooter's Clough and then turned to follow the ridge above Stake Side heading for Stake Farm.  We were out in the heat of the sun now and I lathered up in factor 30 sunscreen.  I burn painfully easily (not me legs though, my legs never burn). The breeze picked up and kept us cool in the bright sun, making the walk that much more enjoyable.

Errwood Reservoir

A right turn and we were on our way up to Shining Tor.

Shutlingsloe from our path to Shining Tor

Benches at the summit were very welcome, and we sat and enjoyed an early lunch in the sun.

Shining Tor Summit

Then it was onwards, along the ridge to Cats Tor, Oldgate Nick and Pym Chair.

Cats Tor

From there we walked on to Windgather Rocks,  playground for the climbers.

Windgather Rocks

We watched for some time as children from 7 to 70 made their way up the cliff - some with ease, others with care and encouragement from the belayer's.  I've always wished I had learnt to do that.

Climbers on Windgather Rocks

It was time now to start making our way down.  We walked through a surreal,very lovely pine woodland. We couldn't work out how it had come to look like this, and we half expected Snow White, or the Three Little Pigs to appear from behind one of the trees.

Then we were back into the open, and the sun and the heat, and without the breeze.  Now the walking was hot and humid.  We stayed in the woods alongside Fernilee Reservoir, following what turned out to be a closed path.

We'd seen the sign saying path closed, but to be honest, we didn't know which one it was pointing too.  It turns out that the foot bridge over Deer Clough had been taken out (some time ago I'd say) by a fallen tree.  Luckily everywhere was very dry and it was easy to cross the beck and continue our way.  I reckon that might be difficult after loads of rain.

We got to the end of Fernilee Reservoir, then it was up the bank to walk alongside Errwood Reservoir.  The road closure thing obviously works, there were people everywhere.  It seems Errwood Resevoir is a hang out for the young, free and noisy and is probably not the place you'd go for a peaceful stroll on a Sunday evening.

Another lovely day out without sunburn although it would have been nicer to have a bit of a breeze in the valley.  (And if your wondering,..... No, my legs didn't burn).

Derwent Edge and the Walking Forum

One of the reasons I joined the The Walking Forum was to find company for walks when Peter is working.  I was hoping that I could enjoy walks that I wouldn’t normally attempt by myself.  Herewith another one of those walks.

On this occasion, I’d travelled down and stayed with Peter in a Sheffield hotel overnight – (he was exhibiting at “Art in the Gardens”), so it was easy then to drive from Sheffield to the start point of the walk – The Upper Derwent, or Fairholmes, Visitor Centre at the top of Ladybower Resevoir.

On arrival, I met Tracey and introduced myself.  But then I realised this Tracey was not the Tracey organising the walk, and I thought I’d best explain that I wasn’t the organiser either.  Luckily, this first Tracey already knew, because she’d met the organiser Tracey on an earlier walk.  Organiser Tracey appeared a few minutes later.

So there was Tracey the organiser, (Tracey 1), me, (Tracey 2), and the Tracey I’d just met, (Tracey 3).  We were joined by Caroline and Carolyn and four guys whose names are not as confusing, Andy, Simon, Pete and James.  Last but not definitely not least, was Aiden.  Aiden is 10 yrs old, can out walk the majority of us, and definitely out talked all of us.   Fortunately, he is a social butterfly and skilled in the art of networking.  We each got a share of his attention and conversation. (Phew!) Actually, he is a delightful boy.  He and the whole group were excellent company, I was very pleased to meet them all, get to know them a little, and put faces to names from the forum.

So to the walk then. Well, it started grim and overcast. Derwent Reservoir was the colour of steel as it reflected the grey clouds. We walked alongside for a while before turning right to climb the 880 ft ascent needed to reach Lost Lad.

As we climbed, the landscape changed. First we walked through the thick green of the bracken growing on the steep banks until the ground starts to level out. As we got higher, the sky brightened and the air grew warmer.

Then, as we got to the top, the moors spread out around us. The bracken had stopped and the heather was in full flower, purple amongst the greens and browns of windswept grasses.

The creases and folds of the cloughs give gentle flowing movement to the landscape and with the blue sky and gusting wind, it was exactly as I like it. Wonderful.

Under the lovely warm sun, the walk moved on: Lost Lad, Back Tor and along Derwent Edge. I’ve been here before with Peter, but last time it was very wet and we didn’t get to see and photograph as much of the rock formations as we’d have liked.

This time was very different and the camera clicked away. I am in awe at the power of wind and water, and how it has managed to carve these amazing shapes out of the rock. I wanted to climb, but that will be for next time I think. 

A really lovely walk along the edge until the The Wheelstones

Shortly after, we turned left to walk down into the bracken of Derwent Moor, taking a loop round past Cutthroat Bridge (brilliant name, conjures up all sorts of images), towards Ashopton.

Ladybower Resevoir glinted in the sun on our left and I loved how green that bracken was around us.

From there, another climb to with more views of Ladybower,

and to complete the loop before descending towards Grindle Clough under blue, blue, skies, finally reaching Ladybower Resevoir and ultimately the car park at around 5pm.

We sat together among the ducks to enjoy ice cream and coffee before all going our separate ways. It was an excellent day which I thoroughly enjoyed. Thank you to Tracey, Tracey, Caroline, Carolyn, Andy, James, Simon, Pete and Aiden for making it so.
Actually, very special thanks to Tracey (1) and Aiden for making it so. J

To read about a previous walk along Derwent Edge click this link.

Derwent Edge

Before I go on to the walking bit, can I just give a "highly recommended" to the Old Hall Hotel, Hope Village.  We ate there Friday and Saturday night, the food was really good and well priced.  Peter enjoyed the beer too. 

I think I should also tell you how we got on with the camping experience this time.......

Well, I slept like a log on my camp bed, so that is a winner.  Sadly though, our little tent, although perfect for camping in the wilds of the lake district, could probably do with being a little bigger if we want to sit on camp chairs and enjoy a coffee in the dry whilst at a campsite.  We've decided to buy a bigger one, and keep the little Vango Banshee for a wild camp or two. 

And so on to the walk.  Sunday’s walk was to be Derwent Edge. So we packed camp and drove to the National Park Car Park and Information Centre between Ladybower and Derwent Reservoirs. Rucksacks and boots on, we set off in drizzly rain with a promise from the forecasters that the weather would improve in the afternoon.

Never trust the weather forecast!

The first part of the walk was dead easy. We went along under the Derwent Dam and then took the blissfully flat gravelled path alongside the reservoir. The drizzle turned to rain.

Just before the Howden Dam, we turned right to walk alongside Howden Dean to Howden Edge and Berristers Tor. I really liked that little corner of the world, all those steep little cloughs appealed to me. Lovely.

From there it was up the boggy hill to Lost Lad and then on to Back Tor – not to be confused with Backtor near Hollins Cross which we visited yesterday.

Despite the overcast skies and the miserable weather, it was dry when we got to Back Tor and we were able to take some photographs……. Well, as long as we held on tightly to the cameras as the wind was hitting gale force and trying to blow us over.  Huh?

Onwards from there along Derwent Edge to see some more of those fantastic rock formations. Thankfully, another paved path through the black wetness along the top of Derwent Edge. But not so thankfully, more rain.  But now the wind was having a bit of fun too, and blowing the rain at us as needles.  Sideways!  I’d been determined that the weather would be better today, and I hadn’t brought my Poncho, or my wetproof trousers, and the zip on my little packaway jacket had bust.  Humph!

Still, walking keeps you warm, the jacket also has a velcro fastening, and I did have my baseball cap on, which meant I didn’t need window screen wipers on me glasses…..See…… There’s always a silver lining. 

So head down, one side wet one side dry (the wind was coming from our right), we plodded on, enjoying those brief moments when the rain wasn't stinging our faces to look around and enjoy the views.   Actually, it was brilliant to be able to see most of our walking route from yesterday, and I did manage again to get a few photographs. 

Then finally it was time to make our way downhill and back to the reservoirs.  And still it rained, and the zip on my jacket opened out even further.  We met a very wet looking family on their way up.  I was relieved that I at least had some form of waterproof clothing at that point.  We reached another Grindle Clough (without the brook this time) which we followed to get to the last part of our walk alongside Ladybower Reservoir.

It was at this point that the weather decided to give the forecasters a break.  The sun came out and the sky turned blue!  My zip was still broken, so I couldn’t undo my jacket, (more humphs!), as we followed the nice easy gravelled path back to the car.  At last we got there, and thankfully, it was full of dry clothes. So we changed and enjoyed a coffee and a bacon sandwich from the little shop at the car park.

The last paragraph of this entry will read like all others. “Another enjoyable day…………..” As I type this, I think, “What! How could I come away from a long wet and cold walk like that and say I enjoyed it?” Well, it’s hard to explain. I think part of it comes from how your body feels. They say exercise releases endorphins, and maybe that’s it. The tiredness of aching muscles sort of feels good, like you’ve actually done something. Then there are the views, and the appreciation of the beauty of the countryside around us, as well as the visiting new places part of the experience. I once read that our childhood memories of long, long summer days and holidays seem that way because all our experiences were new to us then. Perhaps the same applies to these walks out?

Whatever the reason, this last paragraph says, “another enjoyable day”. I did enjoy the day out and I would love to go back again and see it all in the dry. Now, I wonder if I can find a way for Peter to get some more weekends off………