Underscar, overscar wandering free -ly to Castle Bolton on Valentines Day

It must be something in our genes - the desire to wander and visit different places. It doesn't matter how we achieve it, either by visiting a town for the shopping experience or a country for a tourist experience, we all do it, looking for new .........

New what though?

It's probably down to our ancestry - our predecessors were nomadic, constantly on the move searching for fresh food sources. Though food is now in the nearest supermarket it doesn't take away the urge to find. It might be new comforts or friends, smells or tastes, sights, sounds or experiences, but we constantly search for more.

And it's our ancestry that inspires us to get to the top of the next hill - where else would you get the best view of the herds to hunt, the places to camp or see where wild barley is growing. We love the sight of a healthy wild landscape because once upon a time our lives depended on it.

That's what I think, anyway. Nowadays, the landscape isn't quite so wild, but it is still beautiful. And this little walk proves it. It's less than 6 miles and only 900ft of up, so not difficult and we chose a glorious Valentine's day to walk it. (See, my guy takes me to all the best places.)

We parked in a layby just at the top of Preston Scar, next to the quarry, and picked up the footpath along the top of Scarlet Wood.   As soon as we emerged from the trees two things hit us.  One was the wind, which was absolutely freezing, and I mean FREEZING! It was painful against any exposed skin, such as our faces. 

And secondly, we were hit by the views.  Quite wonderful.  That's Penhill on the other side of Wensleydale. 

And this is lower Wensleydale opening out before us, you can see Bolton Castle on the right

The ROW turns right just as you reach Redmire Scar, and there are many warnings from the Redmire Quarry company to keep out.  This is probably for safety reasons, since the track runs alongside the quarry one side with Redmire Scar on the other - it's obvious many people ignore the signs.

We got back onto the ROW beneath Low Scar.  It really was a beautiful day, the sky was so blue. 

We then followed East Lane to get to village of Castle Bolton to have lunch in Bolton Castle - a warming bowl of leek and cabbage soup which steamed in the castle cafe despite the wood burner being fully stoked and roaring away. 

After lunch we set off aiming for Redmire and caught sight of a dragon which guards the castle.

Luckily it ignored us, I think it had already caught someone, judging by the leg sticking out of its mouth.

A look back at the castle from the fields.

Our route took us through Redmire, to Wood End Lane and then up towards Preston-under-Scar, crossing the Redmire -Leeming Bar railway. 

The bank above Preston-under-Scar was extremely steep and slippery.  Better in the drier weather no doubt.  The reward is more wonderful views as we got higher.  This is Penhill (again), with Preston-under-Scar just below us.

And then, once at the top of the bank, it was just a short hop back to the car.  

I have to say that this was a wonderful starter walk for our year, we are just testing our fitness levels and we couldn't have picked a better route or weather. Hopefully next weekend will be fine too and we we can test ourselves a little further.

Unremarkably the highest peak in the Dales

Me n himself are just getting back into the walking thing. We’ve been out a few times (3), and are beginning to work up the miles and complete some decent walks. (6 miles).  We’re even thinking we might be able to take on the big hills...... Well, some of them. Peter suggested a walk up Blencathra next.   I suggested that the attempt might kill us – so we chose something that needs a little less stamina.

So Whernside it was. The weather forecast for Sunday was good – and we were up at the crack of 8 o’clock, rushed about to be out of the house by 9:30 and managed to make good time and be at the Ribblehead Viaduct a little after 10.15.  (OK........ So we're not very good at mornings.)

As we arrived at the the car park, Ingleborough dominated the area – it was the only snow covered peak around and it looked big and steep and hostile. Whernside, on the other hand rises steadily from the landscape, almost unnoticeable as it grows upwards to overshadow all other Yorkshire Peaks and announce its claim, at 2414 feet, to being the highest summit in the Dales.

And of course, in front of Whernside, we had Ribblehead Viaduct carrying the Settle-Carlise Railway across Batty Moss. A stunning piece of engineering and architecture that brings many, many visitors who come to just look.  It really is amazing.

Our route today didn't involve any steep hillside walking.  It was more of a saunter up a very long slope -  which suited me perfectly. (Considering my level of fitness, saunter isn't quite the word, but it'll do). The descent would be a bit steeper though, so we had our walking sticks with us just in case.

The weather was perfect - a dry day with loads of sun between the patchy cloud.  But boy was it cold!  Trust me, layers are the way to go, and it didn't take long to warm up once we'd set off to join the many other couples and groups all heading the same way.

Our route took us alongside Ribblehead Viaduct, past an old Signalman's cottage and up Blue Clay Ridge, (I like that name).

Here's my favourite picture of the day.  Snow covered Ingleborough with the old Railway Signalman's house in the foreground.  Sadly it looks like there are only a few rusting vehicles in residence to enjoy that view. 

As I said earlier, Ingleborough dominated the landscape - it just looks so good in white.

Next was Force Gill Waterfall. Sadly our path didn't allow for a close up.

We slowly ascended Grain Ings heading for Knoutberry Hill.  Looking back we saw what looked to me like jelly moulds. Peter described them as zits!  Actually, they are the spoil heaps from the excavation of the railway tunnel below.

I loved this view, it just seems to go on forever. But you can't tell from the photograph how cold it is, or how strongly the wind is blowing.  It was hard to hold the camera still!

The photo above is the view on the left as we were walking.  I think I should have taken a picture of the view on my right, if only so I could show you Hag Worm Haw Moss!

The last leg of the walk up takes you along Cable Rake Top Ridge. (My head is twisting the words and wants to say Cake Top. ........  Mmmmmmm Cake!  But I digress.)   The wind was on the ridge hard and absolutely bitter! We were relieved to reach the little walled shelters at the summit.  At least there the tea remained hot in the cup, and gloves could come off long enough to eat a sandwich.

But the views from the summit were well worth the biting cold. The air was so clear that we could see the whole of the Lake District range to the North West, the Howgills to the North, and even Cross Fell, the highest point of the Pennines, could be made out North East  To prove it, here's a photo where you can just see snow topped Scafell Pike and chums in the distance. 

At least, I think it's Scafell Pike.  More learned walkers may tell me otherwise.  Here's the zoomed in view.

And here's another picture of Ingleborough.

 I have so many from this walk - it was like a "Let's go to Whernside and take photo's of Ingleborough" day. You have to admit, it does look imposing - and almost demands you make the attempt to get to the top.  We might just do it too.

Our descent from Whernside summit was down the slope of Scar Top Pasture.  It's reasonably steep, with a rocky path that demands attention all the way down.  So no pictures until we got to the bottom - just wobbly legs.  (Another symptom of our unfitnessness).

So now we're on level(ish) ground and this is not a picture of Ingleborugh - I just loved the white of the limestone rock as it surfaces through the scrubby grass.

Looking back, a reminder of how unexceptional Whernside is. 

Now what's wrong with this picture?  Herdwicks in the Dales!  UnHerd of! 

And now to make up the threesome, here's a picture of Pen y Ghent as we made our way back to the viaduct.  The sun lit it up beautifully.  

And of course Ribblehead (or Batty Moss) Viaduct. 

Last but not least, this plaque just in front of the viaduct.  I think it depicts perfectly how modern technology has worked with the original Victorian architects and builders to restore the Viaduct to it's former glory (all at a cost of £3 million.)

As for the walk? Peter commented that he'd never managed to "do" Whernside in such good weather before.  Not bad for February.

(You can read about a previous walk up HERE

All in all an excellent choice - 8 miles, 1590 ft of ascent and glorious views.
(And our wobbly legs had  recovered by the time we got to the car.)

Land of the Hornywink

This little walk story is about solitude. It's about one of those days where nothing and no-one encroached on my time or thinking, and my mind meandered through the past and wandered into the future. The walk didn't follow any set route either to be honest.

It didn't start that way. I'd decided to go to Swaledale where I'd planned a route from Gunnerside. But, stuck behind a slow moving car on the narrow B6270 from Reeth, I decided I didn't want to do that after all, and diverted off at Healaugh and drove up to Surrender Bridge. Once there I thought I'd walk over to Gunnerside and pick up on the path I'd already worked out. So, with that plan in mind, I set of over Feetham Pasture.

It was a lovely day, a little cloudy, but plenty of sunshine, and as always, I was loving being out in the open, soaking up the views and constantly pausing to enjoy them. 

And as always I like to see and hear the birds, and the Lapwings certainly wanted to make sure I didn't miss them.
With their constant pee-whit calls I was surrounded by Green Plovers, Peewits, Pewits, Pee-wees, Chewits, Tuefits, Toppyups, Peasiewheeps, Teeacks, Teewwhuppos, Thievnigs, Wallocks and Plivvers. (And that's only some of the names for a them!). 

Did you know a flock of Lapwings is known as a deceit? And the Shetland name of Tieve's Nacket means "thieves imp". It seems these birds weren't very well thought of in the past, although people did think well enough of them to eat them and their eggs. In fact, they were so well thought of as food that they were reduced to 20 breeding pairs by 1915. And the reason the Lappys were considered deceitful? It's because the birds feign a broken wing or hop and flap and make a lot of noise to distract people away from their nests and to protect their eggs. 

But that was in the past. Now they are plentiful and noisy. Out on the moor, I watched their acrobatics in the sky all around me. I tried to take some pictures, but all I got for my efforts were silhouettes. The wings look flappy and unmanageable, but despite appearances, they allow the Pie-wipes amazing aerial control.

And amongst the Wallopie Weps were Curlews and Meadow Pipits. The Curlews I heard, but only managed to see in the distance. The Meadow Pipits weren't quite so shy.

I walked on entertained by birds around me until I came across a Flopwing that was being quite deceitful. He was making a lot of noise and flapping about to my left, so I was very sure there was a nest on my right. This Flapjack was so worried that I'd find the nest, he let me get close enough to take a few pictures.

Then it was on past Brownsey House and up to Stoops Rigg. With just the wind and the birds for company I sat for a while, absorbing the views.

I started off again towards Barf End until I reached the point above Gunnerside where I could join my planned route. I looked ahead at the path I'd walked many times, and then right, to one that I'd never explored before.

So right it was. Up to Browney Moor, via the old quarries and Slade Head. As I approached a row of Grouse Butts, a small flock of birds crossed the path to land up hill. The birds weren't keen to pose and stayed a distance away, but with the camera on full zoom, I managed to get a few pictures to prove they were Golden Plovers. Another treat for my day.

As I said at the beginning, solitude was the theme. Although I nodded hello to a couple, and to two guys on mountain bikes, it was just me alone all afternoon. The space around me was filled with nothing but sun, wind and bird song and I loved it. Time was mine and I lingered and wandered to my heart's content.

Eventually I started downhill and reached Moor House, (which should really be called No Moor House). It is so remote up here. How did people live when the weather cut off the rest of the world I wonder?

Next for investigation was a little square of fencing, I was hoping it guarded a mineshaft. I was right, but it was all blocked off and made safe which was slightly disappointing. Even worse, I don't know enough to imagine how it would have been when it was in use.

But I was cheered up by a pretty and very small star like flower growing close to the ground.  It's called Spring Sandwort

Starting on the way back now, I crossed Level House Bridge. The Hornpie's preferred the higher ground, so I left them behind. But in the heather I could hear the soft pup pup noises of a mother grouse keeping her chicks in check.

My final photo stops were Hard Level Force, where there wasn't very much water going over the fall.

But there was a little rabbit.

And last but not least, the Old Gang Smelting Mills.

So that was my day. I should point out that amongst the noise of the Hornpies, I was testing a small tablet loaded with Memory Map (MM allows you a trial period) to plan/follow my route and also to act as a GPS. It was a total success. I could enlarge the map and manoeuvre it however I wanted, I was able to track my route and the GPS made sure I knew exactly where I was at all times and it made it easy for me to change my route as I went along. Definitely the way forward for me.

An easy enough walk, just over 8 miles and about 1000ft uppiness

And I have to mention Birds Britannica by Mark Cocker and Richard Mabey - it's full of all sorts of information about Lapwings.  It's also got a few stories about Golden Plovers, Pipits and Grouse, but I'll save them for another day.

Aysgarth to Bolton Castle

Today started badly.

I'd agreed to meet Ed from the walking forum at Aysgarth Falls at 10 am for a walk that I'd planned.  At 9.25 I opened my eyes to look at the clock and then I became the fastest moving zombie ever.  I'd not woken up, but I knew I had to get out, and I couldn't remember any of things that you are supposed to do in the morning.

At 9.50 I was in the car and on my way.  No breakfast and no coffee, I nearly forgot my boots but I did remember brush my teeth............  And get dressed.

My little car flew over the hills, and it wasn't long before I ended up tailing a blue Ford into Carperby.  Fortunately it wasn't going that slow.  That would be because it was Ed, also late and now just in front of me.  Phew! We both pulled into the National Park car park at 10.15.  (He had a good excuse though, like driving for an hour and three quarters)

"Well!  That was a good start to the day", thought I, "let's hope it doesn't continue like that." and pulled my rucksack out of the car.  It was upside down, and the top was wide open!

So I picked everything up and after rummaging around under the car for the water bottles, got me boots on, locked the car and set off with Ed over the bridge towards Aysgarth Church.   It turned out to be a really good walk.  Not too strenuous and only a couple more hiccups, one of which was I'd forgotten my camera.  I used my mobile phone instead (which eventually run out of battery), and sadly many of the pictures aren't that clear, but I've added the best of them to the little story of our walk.

We saw waterfalls and crossed stepping stones

Stepping Stones over the River Ure at Slapestone Wath

Walked through lanes waist high in flowers

Thoresby Lane, Wensleydale

Saw a speckled wood

Speckled Wood butterfly. 

A dragon

A dragon carved out of a fallen ash on the road up to Castle Bolton village

Bolton Castle

And a castle













There were sheep with fringes

The sheep on the left has been sheared, the farmer left her a long curly woolly fringe. 

A Grey, a Bay, a Palomino and a Black but I didn't get that picture.  (Horses if you didn't know).  We saw goats and fat hairy pigs, and guinea fowl but I didn't get those pictures either.

Excited at seeing so many different domestic animals, I didn't take notice of where we were going.  So we went the wrong way, but the bonus was that there were alpaca's in the field ahead of us.  In my hurry to go see, I didn't look.  And ended up in a pile on the road.  So, another thing we got to see today was my blood.  Not a lot fortunately, enough for me to have to get the plasters out though.  (I'm making it sound worse than it really was. It was only a few grazes.)

Anyway,  we got to see Alpaca's

And dead moles all in a row.  (Ugh!)

Like a train crash.  You have to look.  And they're repulsive. 

Then we turned around and went back to find the right path.  Walking across the field from West Bolton to East End Farm we were lucky enough to get to see both Oyster Catchers and Lapwings close up.  They were everywhere, screeching and pee-whitting,  flying around our heads.  It was quite cool actually.
We also got to see Ragged Robin, a flower I've never seen before (Ed identified it), and banks covered in gorgeous blue Speedwell.

Speedwell turning the grassy bank blue. 

From Carperby we made our way to St Joseph's Wood and from there down to the Lower Falls.  If you know to keep walking on the gravel path, there is a little drop down to the levels below Lower Falls.  Definitely the best view of them.

Lower Falls, Aysgarth

Then it was back to the car park to offload our kit and another little treat to see this old timer.  (Not the bloke, the bus ).

An old timer - I dunno anything about cars or buses, except that this one is old. 

Finally we went back over the bridge to the Yore Mill coffee shop on the other side.  Definitely the best place for cake and a cuppa, nd they sell some of the best icecream in the area.   I didn't have any cash though........ (another fail!).  Good job they take visa.

It was hot and muggy with the occasional bit of drizzle.  We walked just over 8 miles (partly cos we went the wrong way), with 850ft of up.  I really enjoyed the day out.  Thanks Ed.

And sorry to anyone reading about the quality of the photo's.  I'll do better next time.  Promise.

Oh and by the way, the map of the route.